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Friday, June 12, 2009

THE GRUB REPORT: Cooking the Books: A Book of Middle Eastern Food


One of the most fascinating things about food, for me, is the fact that it's something we share with every single person on the globe, now and as far back as the history of humankind goes.
Think about it. The ingredients differ, and some of the techniques do too, but the aim is the same, and always has been: to provide nourishment and enjoyment. Just as I relish the opportunity to cook up something tasty, so do other young women on the opposite side of the globe. Is it any wonder that cooking utensils and preserved bits of food are some of the most telling finds in archaeological digs? We are, indeed, what we eat, and so goes the history of the world.

That may be why I find old cookbooks so intriguing.

As Jim Cramer mentioned in the comments of the last edition of Cooking the Books, there are real gems to be found beyond the shelves of the local book store or the virtual shelves of today's online retailers.

You can find them in boxes at auctions and garage sales, on shelves or bins at antique stores, used book stores or even junk stores, in piles at your friends' and family members' houses.
One of my favorites came from an interesting used book store down in Madison, Ind., called The Red Onion. If you're a book lover, be prepared to spend quite a long time if you ever decide to visit!

It's called A Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden. (This first edition is now out of print, and apparently there is an updated version with a somewhat more modern take.)

Roden, in the book's introduction, says she hails from Cairo but moved to Europe as a girl. She recounts how food was her connection to her homeland. And can't we all relate to that? If you've ever traveled, or moved, or even seen the demise of a beloved hometown restaurant, the longing for the smells and tastes that are now out of reach can be the strongest manifestation of homesickness.

If you work that equation backward, though, you can transport yourself to parts of the globe you may never actually visit. Adding new flavors and techniques in your own kitchen can be just as eye-opening as an exotic vacation. And for that, this book is a treasure trove. The introduction gives the reader a glimpse into the culture of food in the Middle East, expanding your awareness beyond simple ingredients and dishes. It's as much an anthropology lesson as it is a cookbook!

Many of the recipes themselves, though, may be too much for the casual cook. The book assumes a mastery of technique and is by no means a step-by-step guide, as many modern cookbooks are. Modern cooks would likely have to do some of their own research, online or in other books, to be able to make good use of Roden's instruction. But that's not to say there is a lack of inspiration in the pages of this cookbook. The combinations of ingredients offer a whole new world of flavors that can help you revolutionize your own cooking, even if you don't follow Roden's recipes.

And that, to me, is one of the most exciting things about a book like this. It may not be the most used book on your shelves, but it will certainly color your culinary world.

So if you're dreaming of a trip to far-off lands, consider taking some new ideas for a spin in your kitchen instead. Head to a used book store or an antique store. Ask your family members if they have any unusual old books stashed somewhere. Then spend some time with your finds. Flip through the pages with no particular aim in mind. If you're looking for a specific dish, you'll miss a lot of the inspiration along the way.

Originally posted to The Grub Report by Patricia Gibson on June 11, 2007 12:35 PM

Comments

At June 13, 2007 5:31 PM, James Cramer said...

Eating is not just about the cooking. If you are going to eat Middle Eastern cuisine go for the full experience and do it up right.

Kick off your shoes and eat sitting on the floor. Throw down and spread out some rugs and small pillows. Place the food on a low table in one large central dish for all to share. Put a bowl for washing your hands on or near the table so you can wash before and during eating.

Only eat from your place in the community bowl in front of you, no reaching across. Don't use forks, spoons, or knives. Use your hand to eat, however, only your right hand. It is bad manners to use your left hand. The right hand is exclusively used for all public functions. These include shaking hands, eating, drinking, and passing something to another person. Using the left hand is an insult. And remember that the soles of your feet should not point directly toward someone else. (This is also bad manners, and may bring "bad luck" to that person.)

Remember to make it fun. Here are some foods I suggest for you to enjoy.

Kibbeh - Lamb, beef and cracked wheat.

Samboosak - Beef patties

Lamb Shishlik - Marinaded skewered lamb ("Shish Kebob in in USA)

Al-Motubug - Pastry stuffed with beef

Mejadra - Lentils and rice or cracked wheat.

Tomato Salad

Tabouleh - cracked wheat, parsley and mint salad

Falafel - fried ground beans form the basis for a Middle East fast food.

Baba Ghannouche - Aubergine (Eggplant) salad with tehina

Humus bi Tehina - chick pea and sesame salad

Muhamara - hot pepper dip

Tahinat el Beid - dip for breadTurkish Salad - a hot sauce used with falafel

Adas Bil Hamod - Like Mejadra, but using potatoes

Salatat Bathinjan - aubergine (eggplant) salad

Labani - home made cheese made from yogurt and milkPita or other flat breads

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